Tamar Keburia, Fashion Designer, “Everyone can become a refugee.”

We speak to designer Tamriko to catch up on her jaw-dropping LFW moment and her journey.

A change in pace is where we find Tamar Keburia, rolling down the runway are mirrored suitcases, jumps and gasps can be heard over the soundtrack created to mimic the rhythm of transit hubs with a shrill SOS signal overlaid. To each guest's surprise, they are face to face with a reflection of themselves. A stark difference to the traditional runway, it's rare to catch yourself when you are so focused on the models. Ukraine Fashion Week, set at London Fashion Week, is where Tamar Keburia sets herself apart.

Fronted by designer Tamriko, the brand is grabbing eyes unlike any others. Having been on the fashion scene for a while her designs have been spotted by Vogue, Elle and several print publications. But, this fashion week marked a change in pace. She made a statement.

Now residing in London, we join Tamriko for a chat on her journey, the jaw-dropping fashion week moment and how the Ukraine war has changed her perspective. 

Opening with enormously warm energy we begin on what Tamar Keburia is, “I describe it as contemporary chic for queens of the metropolis. I'm referring to the women who should feel themselves as Queens, you can understand who this woman is.”

A non-fashion background behind Tamriko she explains, “My real profession is a lawyer. I have a master's degree in law. It's crazy! All my experiences in education have helped me make the business. Because everyone can do the creative part, but to make it happen is a different thing.”

She continues, “Fashion was my childhood dream. So there was a moment when I decided to quit everything and go become whatever I wanted. So, I started my fashion brand when I was 35, because when you grow up you sometimes forget about your dreams.”

“You have social duties and blah, blah, blah, all these things... And then I decided, I have to try, if I do not try it then I will regret it.”

An honest confession she adds, “This was my second job. I was balancing work, passion, being a mother, being a sister, being a wife. I finally decided that I'm not going to mix it with anything.”

“My mind changed when the war started in Ukraine. You end up rethinking what is the value of everything you do.”

In 2022, Putin announced a "special military operation" into Ukraine, resulting in a Russian invasion that was internationally condemned. The ongoing conflict has seen thousands of deaths and a refugee crisis of 6.5 million.

She continues, “I’m now living here in London with my daughter, She's 10 years old, and with my mom. So we came over the three of us, trying to navigate through all this.”

Reflecting she adds, “I'm originally from Georgia. I was born in a small place and after the Soviet Union collapsed we had a war there. We were refugees. We went to Ukraine, and then again we became refugees. So for me, it's a very painful topic.”

When asked about the suitcases the enjoyment from the response is clear in her tone, “So the idea is that all of the models were refugees. But, not refugees in terms of the stereotypes with broken clothes, refugees can be different. Now in the global circumstances, everyone can become a refugee.”

“This was my main message. And that's why they were rolling the suitcases with mirrors that we attached. So it's for the audience for one second to see themselves in that reflection and understand the whole situation, that anything could happen.”

“Nowadays you never know if you will have to leave your country or not.”

She adds, “I had two reactions: What is the show? I expected that. But This was for me. The Ukrainian part of everyone I know was crying. They understood. The part of the people who weren't felt a little bit uncomfortable. Because no one wants to be a refugee, even for one second.”

“It was just, a couple of minutes and it was my chance and opportunity to say something. So that was my message. I felt it's very important.”

A perfect execution, not only were the clothes stunning the message was conveyed faultlessly, but backstage there was the minor to major issue of transportation.

Laughing she says, “When the van came to my home to transport everything, they were still on the floor. There was no way back now if this mirror falls apart. I don't know what I will do!”

Queens of the metropolis is an apt description, the models look stunning and confident with an unapproachable air of royalty carried through the dark tones and sleek pleats. When citing her inspiration Tamriko explains how her identity and the brand are symbiotic, “You merge with it, it's impossible to do otherwise. Nowadays it's very connected, in the beginning, I was trying to experiment further but I didn't like it because it wasn't true to myself. But I’m also developing as a person, like everyone”

Better late than never certainly applies to Tamriko’s entrance to fashion, and on parting ways she divulges some gems of advice.

“If you want to start your brand make sure you do something unique. Otherwise don't start. The world doesn't need one more cashmere sweater or a camel coat or a white t-shirt. There are a lot of them.”

“This is a really long journey, but start. It's better to do and then be altered. Then regretted and to not do at all.”

Touching on what's next with a number of prerequisites, “it may not happen” she hints, “I want to do some crazy things, this is a really super complicated preparation. I think the next collection will be about optical illusions combined with shapes.”

Tamriko’s personality and openness to involve herself in not only her brand but our conversation explains how her runway was so moving and the excitement building for what she will do next is tangible.